Seal Offline 2013

So I was leaking oil out the rear of the motor, it was coming out the bottom of the bell housing. And I knew I screwed up putting the rubber plugs in (cut them flush when rebuilding the motor) and had to replace them. I was thinking the rear main was leaking to account for the oil. So this afternoon I finanny got around to dropping the pan and pulling the rear cap.

What I found was a bit disconerning. The reinforced metal flange was sheared off the cap side and it looked like the rubber had melted a bit inside the cap.

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I thought maybe the flywheel flange was rubbing on the outside of the seal. I followed a rebuild guide and installed the seal the same way as the guide. This way: Speaking to my father who has had a '53 3A since HS said there should be no rubber outside the cap and it should be installed this way: Which way is the proper way?!

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I'm going to have to pull the motor anyways to clean out the top half of the seal. I have a new seal from Kaiser, which according to the description said it should be trouble free. The seal that failed came from a complete gasket kit I'm assuming is an Omix kit. The motor is on a fresh rebuild and only has 60 miles on it. Just to be on the safe side I just ordered a rubber seal com Ron Fitzpatrick.

I will compare the Kaiser and Ron one when it comes In. I tried to push the upper part of the seal out without any luck, I'm sure it's like the cap side and has melted rubber goo in the channel, so as much as I don't want to I'm pretty sure I have to pull the crank. I believe I have discovered the problem! Got the motor yanked yesterday and racking my brain about what could have happened.

All the searches I've found have had a different problem with these seals, that they melt and overheat the bearing. But on mine the lip that sits outside the block was sheared off. Checked end play and it's good, there would not be enough rearward movement anyways because the oil slinger would hit its groove. So I laid the crank in and started slowly turning it with the Kaiser seal I already had on hand. The flywheel bolts were in. One of the bolt heads was veeery close to hitting the seal.

And I noticed it wasn't sitting flush on the flywheel flange. One of the corners of the bolt head was on top of the raised ridge on the flange. Checked the other bolts and some had evidence that they were torqued with a corner on the lip. When the bolt is turned to sit flush it appears to have much more clearance!

The lip I'm talking about: Clearance with the bolt head on the 'lip' Clearance with it sitting properly: Now I just got to sit around and wait for my Ron Fitzpatrick seal to show up and a new oil pick up gasket to arrive. Then button it all back up!

Note for future folks!! Edited by clayvt - 19 Aug.  2016 at 12:52pm TERRY.

The crank surface was dirty from the old seal melting slightly. I got it cleaned up and installed the Ron Fitzpatrick seal.

It has been leak free for almost 400 miles now. The only thing is, i thought it was leaking again as i was getting oil at the rear of the pan and dripping from the backing plate. So i pulled the motor again to investigate and i saw no evidence of any oil around the rear main seal. So that is holding. Discovered my problem was with the oil pan itself.several of the bolt holes were warped not letting it get a good seal.

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